As handloom clothing becomes increasingly popular for its beauty, sustainability, and cultural value, the market is also seeing a rise in machine-made imitations marketed as “handloom.” For buyers who genuinely want to support artisans and invest in real craftsmanship, distinguishing authentic handloom fabrics is essential.
Here’s a complete, easy-to-follow guide to help you confidently identify genuine handloom textiles every time.
1. Look for Irregularities—They’re a Good Sign!
Unlike machine-made fabric, handloom textiles are created manually, which results in small, beautiful imperfections.
You may notice:
- Slight variations in weave density
- Tiny thread knots where the yarn was joined
- Minor inconsistencies in pattern alignment
These natural irregularities are signs of human craftsmanship, not defects.
2. Feel the Texture: Handloom Has Character
Authentic handloom fabric often has:
- A softer, more breathable feel compared to powerloom textiles
- A rich, textured surface
- A fabric “body” that improves with every wash
Machine-made cloth tends to feel overly smooth, uniform, or stiff.
3. Check the Selvedge (Edges of the Fabric)
The selvedge of handloom fabric is usually:
- Neatly finished
- Often slightly uneven
- Sometimes decorated with handwoven designs or a color strip
Machine-made textiles typically have perfectly straight, uniform selvedges with no variation.
4. Observe the Design and Motifs
In handloom fabrics, motifs are woven into the cloth, not printed on top of it.
Look closely for:
- Patterns visible on both sides of the fabric
- Slight variations in motif shapes, indicating manual weaving
- No signs of screen or digital printing
If the design looks too perfect, identical, or pixelated, it’s likely powerloom.
5. Perform the Transparency Test (for Lightweight Fabrics)
Hold the fabric against light.
With handloom:
- You’ll often see uneven spacing between threads
- The weave will have a soft, organic structure
Powerloom fabric will look evenly spaced and mechanically precise.
6. Check the Price and Production Story
Authentic handloom cannot be extremely cheap.
If a seller claims a saree or fabric is handloom but priced unusually low, it’s likely machine-made.
Genuine handloom sellers often provide:
- Information about the weaving cluster
- Details of the craft tradition
- Artisan names or stories
- Handloom certification (if available)
A transparent story usually signals authenticity.
7. Look for the Handloom Mark or GI Tag
In India, the Handloom Mark is an official certification assuring that the product is genuinely handwoven.
Some textiles, like Kanchipuram Silk or Banarasi Sarees, have Geographical Indication (GI) tags, confirming their origin and authenticity.
While not all handloom products carry these marks, having them adds a layer of trust.
8. Examine the Reverse Side of the Fabric
Turn the fabric over and inspect the back.
In authentic handloom, you may notice:
- Threads slightly overlapping
- Floating yarns behind motifs
- A design almost as clear as the front
Powerloom fabrics often show sloppy threads or patterns that don’t match the front.
9. Test the Pull Strength
Handloom fabrics are woven with care, which often makes them stronger than machine-made cloth.
Gently stretch the fabric. It should feel:
- Firm yet flexible
- Durable with a comfortable give
Powerloom fabric may feel rigid or overly taut.
10. Buy from Trusted Sources
For best assurance, purchase from:
- Certified handloom stores
- Reputed artisan collectives
- Verified online handloom brands
- Government-sponsored handloom expos
- Craft clusters and weaver cooperatives
When in doubt, ask the seller for details—authentic sellers will gladly share.
Final Thoughts
Identifying authentic handloom fabric is not just about smart shopping—it’s about honoring heritage, protecting artisans, and investing in clothing that lasts. With a little knowledge and careful observation, you can make confident choices that celebrate craftsmanship and sustainability.
Handloom is more than fabric—it’s a legacy woven by skilled hands. When you choose authentic handloom, you support a tradition that deserves to thrive.
